Calvados has long been confined to the digestif slot. A small glass after the meal, sometimes a “trou normand” slipped between two courses. Then, over the past decade, craft bars in New York, London and Paris put it back behind the shaker. That comeback comes down to a rare quality: calvados has a tart apple freshness that holds up against sugar, citrus, bitters.

Here are five recipes we regularly serve at tastings, at the domaine. Three classics (Calvados Sour, Jack Rose, Norman Sazerac), a seasonal variation (Normandy Mule), a house aperitif (Pommeau Spritz). For each one, the Cinq Autels calvados we recommend, and why.